You can read the full tribute to Climbers We Lost in 2024 here.

Ondrej Húserka, 34, October 31

Over the last decade, Ondrej Húserka completed ambitious, difficult climbs around the world, becoming a leading alpine force in his native Slovakia, and a much-lauded member of the Slovak Mountaineering Union JAMES (SHS). Húserka, 34, died on October 31, after making the first ascent of the 2,220-meter East Face of remote peak Langtang Lirung (7,234m), in Nepal. He was climbing with Marek Holeček, via a route that Holeček later christened Ondrova Hvězda (Ondra’s Star) in his late partner’s honor. Húserka perished after a rappel anchor broke on descent, and he fell into a crevasse.

Húserka spent most of his life in his native Ľuborča, a small town in the White Carpathian mountains of northwestern Slovakia. Born into a mountain-loving family, he was on the wall from age 15, first at the sport crag Skalka, near the town of Trenčín. Húserka took to rock quickly, and redpointed 5.12d after climbing for barely a year. He graduated university with a degree in mechanical engineering, but climbing soon became his main focus, and when he wasn’t on the wall he made a living as a high-angle ropes specialist to make ends meet and fund his climbs. “His natural talent was evident in his fluid, fearless movement,” said his sister, Katarína. “His greatest strength, however, lay in his psychological resilience, a quality he demonstrated repeatedly—notably during his onsight attempt of the Via Attraverso il Pesce (5.12b/c; 900m) on Marmolada, where he led all the pitches.”

“Driven and motivated, climbing [was] Ondrej’s entire life,” she added. “He worked hard to fund his expeditions, often taking jobs at heights or traveling to [the United States] for months to help build stadiums. The money he earned was invested in his climbing dreams, and this deep appreciation for the cost of each expedition fueled his determination. Almost every trip resulted in an extraordinary first ascent or the completion of a challenging route.”

During his lifetime, Húserka won 13 awards for his climbs, and was awarded the Golden Carabiner in memoriam by the SHS. “Climbing trips with Ondrej were filled with laughter and joy,” said Katarína, “whether at a belay station or relaxing with a beer in the bar afterward.” She added that he particularly cherished traveling to El Chaltén, Argentina, and felt at home with the vibrant climbing community there. Though he humbly maintained on his website that “he still cannot say that he is a professional climber,” in the last decade, Húserka established and repeated a number of respected routes around the world, from his native Tatra Mountains to the Italian Dolomites and Patagonia.

Notables include Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge (5.11d C1 WI5; 700m), the first ascent of Pain and Gain (5.12a C1; 570m) on Aguja Desmochada, and Summer Bouquet (5.13a), a new 900-meter route on the West Face of Kyrgyzstan’s Pik Alexander Blok (5,283m/17,188ft). In 2023, Húserka and Wadim Jablonski’s first ascent of Gangotri Gambling (5.11c M6 A0; 600m) on India’s Phaalkan Meenaar (5602m/18,379ft) was included in the list of “Significant Ascents” for the 2023 Piolets d’Or.

Húserka’s friends created a short film tribute, posted to YouTube, sharing highlights of his climbing career. The impression is of a dauntless ropeman with an easy smile, quick to laugh, evidently unbothered by wet and wind and cold, bad food, and other grim baggage of the alpinist life. (Húserka was clearly not only strong but savvy. He seems to have taught his beloved dog, Larry, to fetch both his quickdraws and climbing shoes on command.)

“Ondrej was fearless, courageous, and an exceptional motivator,” said Katarína. “Above all, he was a kind-hearted friend. His absence leaves an irreplaceable void in the hearts of all who knew him.

Rest in peace, our beloved Ondrej. You will be deeply missed but never forgotten.”

In addition to an wide network of loving friends and climbing partners, such as Wadim Jablonski, Ondrej Húserka is survived by his girlfriend of 15 years, Eva Milovská, his mother, father, two sisters, Veronika and Katarína, and a brother, Šimon.

You can read the full tribute to Climbers We Lost in 2024 here.