alpinism

We spoke with Haley about his history with Aguja Standhardt, the ethics of hiring a porter, and why he doesn’t value “boldness” in climbing.

How the 41-year-old American made the first winter solo of Patagonia’s famed Cerro Torre.

Even in summer, the 1,250-meter 5.11b is serious: endless crack systems, polished dihedrals, and off-widths on flawless granite. In winter, it's a completely different beast.

Three pro climbers faced an insurmountable crux on Jirishanca. Instead of admitting defeat, they invented a new summit (at their highpoint) and marketed their attempt as a grand success.

Conflicting accounts surround a highly publicized link-up in the Swiss Alps and its 21-year-old predecessor.

“It doesn’t ever abate. You have to keep given’ er all day every day.”

It was the culmination of a truly historic trip to the range.

Three years after a fateful expedition to Alaska, this American alpinist is employing a few new tactics on rock, ice, and snow.

When three pro climbers took ice axes to the famous rock climb D7 in winter, they were expressing a natural form of alpinism. Critics online thought differently.

With mandatory, sky-hook protected free climbing up to 5.12, ‘Gringos Locos’ is an apt route name.

Petr Vicha and Danny Menšík freed the 450-meter northeast face of Poland’s highest peak, Rysy, over three demanding days.

Including the infamous ‘Reality Bath’ (Canadian Grade VII Ice), 'Virtual Reality' (WI 6), and the 'Californiana' (5.10; 700m) on Cerro Chaltén.

The story behind a new route up White Sapphire (6,040m), by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, and Hayden Wyatt.

Japanese climbers Hidesuke Taneishi and Hiroki Yamamoto made the first ascent of the unclimbed Himalayan peak on October 31.

Americans August Franzen, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler made the first ascent of Yashkuk Sar via the inspiring north buttress. They called their route 'Tiger Lily Buttress’ (AI 5+ M6 A0; 2,000m).

After decades of friendship, a British duo just nabbed a first ascent of Yawash Sar, a stunning 6,000-meter peak in Pakistan.

I’ve been loving this 25-liter pack for its extremely light weight, durability, and surprisingly low price.

Quentin Roberts writes about one of the most badass first ascents in recent memory: His mind-bending—and Piolet-winning—trip up Jirishanca’s previously unclimbed Southeast Ridge, in 2022.

An unknown American climber found the corpse, searched it for identification, and found a perfectly preserved driver’s license alongside various personal affects.

After getting dropped off by plane in a narrow, threatened valley, the “easiest” way back to civilization was up the giant East Face of Mount Hunter.

Kitty Calhoun has climbed hard alpine faces around the world, but her biggest struggles have come at home: dealing with death, identity, and a complex family history.

With 'Round Trip Ticket' (M7 AI5+ A0), Alan Rousseau, Jackson Marvell, and Matt Cornell have established one of the most impressive Himalayan routes in recent memory.

Their 2,100-meter route was graded ED, a terse grade that feels appropriate for the duo’s proudly minimalist climbing style.

Or, why you shouldn't get angry at your climbing partner, stalk off across a remote Alaskan glacier alone, and fall unseen into a crevasse.

An Excerpt from Majka Burhardt's new memoir, "More", which (in our reviewer's words) describes Burhardt's "painful metamorphosis from nomadic adventurer to pregnant spouse" and "reflects the conflicts so many of us face as we transition in and out of climbing and in and out of wanting something more."

As a prologue, it should be noted that all three of us—Baqar Gelashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, and I—feel grateful to have lived this adventure. The whole escapade felt like a return to a romantic era of mountaineering, yet in a natural, ecological style, with a small circle of friends, dishing out a powerful test of our capabilities.

The Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar’s Northwest Face, as well as Annapurna III’s Southeast Ridge, will be awarded in Briançon, France next month.

The British Alpinist's abridged career was in many ways defined by his attempts to differentiate himself from his iconic mother's achievements. In the end, the resemblances are eerie.

The American alpinist shares what it took to climb the 5,000-foot route on Cerro Chaltén.

They were on one of the world's highest and most difficult faces. Then a storm rolled in and the climb went from merely desperate to living hell.

Josh Wharton and Vince Anderson have done the first integral ascent and first free ascent of the Italian route "Suerte" (5.13a, WI6, M7, 3,500 feet) on Jirishanca (20,100 feet) after turning around just four pitches from the summit in 2019.

Teams have attempted the 5,800-meter peak for over thirty years. Will Sim and Fabi Buhl skipped the normally treacherous approach, paragliding to access the mountain.

Alaska’s driest spring in recent memory provided ideal conditions for the 9,000-foot ice and mixed climb.

Featuring vertical ice and mixed climbing at high altitude, it was of the hardest lines in the Himalaya 46 years ago. Despite many attempts it’s repelled a second ascent until now.

A guidebook author and Patagonia guru, Rolando Garibotti has emerged from decades of cutting-edge alpinism with some serious wisdom.

“Entropi” has several pitches of “mentally challenging” ice climbing including a vertical, 65-foot step of two-inch-thick ice.

Piolet d’Or-winning alpinist Graham Zimmerman shows how you don't need to be environmentally perfect to be a powerful advocate for the environment.

Fred Beckey was one of America’s most accomplished and celebrated climbers. During his 77-year career he has made hundreds of first ascents, including routes on Denali, Devils Thumb, Mount Hood, Mount Edith Cavell, Mount Hooker, Mount Deborah, Devils Tower, and, of course, the celebrated Beckey/Chouinard on the South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos. He was the author of eight books including the popular Cascade Alpine Guide series. This feature originally appeared in Rock and Ice.

He was the best alpinist of his generation, a quiet, unassuming Canadian known for bold ascents of some of the world’s most iconic peaks. At the age of 25, he traveled to Alaska to join climber Ryan Johnson for a first ascent outside Juneau. They never came back, and a frantic nine-day search left more questions than answers.

Check out Anthony Walsh's author page.

Alex Lowe’s death on Shishapangma in 1999 created the void that his sons, wife, and best friend still inhabit. Now Lowe’s oldest son, Max, has made an award-winning documentary about it.

The Southeast Ridge has repelled attempts from some of the world’s greatest alpinists. Three climbers have solved another “last great problem” in impressive alpine style.

Check out Anthony Walsh's author page.

Check out Federico Bernardi's author page.

The Swiss alpinist finished his 10-year project August 15, soloing the North Face of the Petit Dru in one hour and 43 minutes.

Most risk scientists live risk-minimal lives, but Robert Charles Lee and his wife, Linda Cook, devoted their spare time to alpine and ice climbing. Now retired, Lee has written a book about risk, climbing, and partnership. In this excerpt he writes about the time he broke the cardinal rule of ice climbing: don't fall.

When a who's who of alpinist including Ueli Steck, Ines Papert, Will Gadd, and Nick Bullock visit a mountain you know it’s special. Quentin Roberts and Jesse Huey hope to solve the riddle of Tengkangpoche’s North Pillar.

Check out Matt Samet's author page.

Check out Michael Levy's author page.

David Roberts, One of Climbing's Most Prolific Adventurers and Authors, Contemplates Risk Through the Lens of a Life of Climbing and a Cancer Diagnosis

Reviewed: Spot X 2-Way Satellite Messenger