Edelrid’s Ohmega—Game Changer for Partners of Different Sizes—Is Finally Available
Our review of this new belay brake assistant, including how it stacks up to the Edelrid Ohm.
Belaying
Belaying
Painfully Honest Climbing-Partner Reviews
"Showed up in a swami belt, refused to use a belay device, and made fun of my figure-eight knot. One star."
Would You Let an AI Robot Belay You?
A breakup letter to my human climbing partner
The Rocky Emotional Aftermath of My Gym Climbing Accident
A stranger he met at the gym dropped him to the ground. In the aftermath, the author had to relearn how to climb—and to trust.
He Used a Human As the Belay Anchor. Really? (Yes, Really)
This anchorless belay relied on bodyweight and broke all the rules in the book, including some that weren't even in there.
Belay Device Unclipped Itself … And Leader Fell
It's a fantastical, unbelievable story, but the unbelievable really happened.
Is the GriGri Superior to the ATC Guide? Experts Weigh In.
We chatted with a few industry experts to better understand the strengths and weaknesses of each product.
This Belayer Made Nearly Every Mistake In The Book
The belay had three bolts yet he only clipped one, and didn't use a single locking carabiner.
Looking to Lead Climb? Here’s How to Take and Catch Falls
Seven tips—to work on now and continually—for mastering the nuances of falling and catching falls.
Belaying Outside is Different From Belaying in a Gym. You’d Better Know the Difference.
Uneven stances, hanging belays, anchors, roots and rocks your rope can snag on...belaying outside is full of hazards that aren't replicated in the gym. Here are some strategies to keep both the climber and belayer safe and secure.
For Safety’s Sake Don’t Do This: Let Parents Belay Through A Bolt Hanger
Parents love their kids and will do anything for them, including taking them toprope climbing when they don't have a clue.
For Safety’s Sake Don’t Do This: Belay With a Knife
If you thought you'd seen everything, you haven't.
A Belayer Breakup Letter
"Maybe this is shallow, but you’ve let yourself go. When we first met, you were hangboarding three days a week. These days you’re lucky to get in the gym one day"
How to Build an Anchor in Poor Rock
Learning how to build an “anchor in-series” will not only give you a solid option for bad rock, but also offers numerous solutions if you run into any other tricky anchor scenarios.
Avoid Accidents With Better Multi-pitch Communication
Use this expert advice to never lose touch with your partner on a long route.
For Safety’s Sake, Don’t Do This: Take The Leader Off Belay While Still Climbing
A classic case of miscommunication could have spelled disaster.
Don’t Drop Your Partner, and Other Ways to Not Screw Up on Belay
How you hold the rope is just one aspect of the belay—no more or less important than vigilance, rope management, how and where you stand, and communication.
Complacency Kills! Here’s a Checklist for Staying Safe
Casual cragging is anything but—the law of gravity still applies. Use this four-part checklist to beat complacency and prevent accidents.
Here’s A Dangerous Belayer You Won’t Want To Climb With
Violating the rule "never take your brake hand off the rope," is bad enough, but this belayer took it to a whole new level of danger.
Confessions Of The World’s Worst Belayer
It was sheer luck that saved his partner's life after he took him off belay on lead.
Can You Really Use An Ascender As A Belay Device? These Guys Did.
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
How Do You Give a Great Belay? We Did the Math.
Proper belay technique can mean the difference between pulling gear or breaking ankles and just hitting the end of the rope.
Oh No, Not Another Dangerous Idea: They Used Webbing Instead Of A Rope
Webbing may cost less than climbing rope, but it doesn't stretch and belay devices aren't designed for it. It seems self apparent that you should only climb on an actual climbing rope, but not everyone has gotten the message.
Belaying an XL: Tips for Lightweight Climbers
You might be lighter than your partner, but you can still belay with confidence. The author shares tips from decades of climbing and guiding.
“Old” Guy Thought A Hip Belay Was Fine
Three more instances of climbers taking unnecessary, foolish risks.
This Multi-Pitch Belay Mistake Could Have Spelled Disaster
"On arriving at the belay, I saw that my partner had tried to put the tube-style belay device in guide mode, but failed."
GoPro Climber Would Do Anything For Facebook Likes
People like to be liked and noticed. But this guy took it way too far.
Why Do Knots Keep Coming Untied?
Here we have two tales of not paying enough attention to climbing's most critical tasks: tying in and belaying.
A Series Of Unfortunate Events—A Fortunate Groundfall Landing
A tossed rock and a lost belay would have killed this leader if not for a miraculous landing among the boulders.
Yet Another Dangerous Belay That’s Hard To Believe
A true story that could have ended any number of ways.
This Belayer Should Be Banned From Climbing
This sketchy dude took the leader off belay and left to chat up a couple of girls.
How to Toprope Belay
Get the safest method and helpful tips for giving the best toprope belay, whether you're using an ATC or a grigri.
Leader Decks When Experienced Climber Bungles The Belay
Don't assume that because someone can climb hard that they are good belayers.
Common Belay Screw-ups and What To Do About Them
How you hold the rope is just one aspect of the belay and no more or less important than vigilance, rope management, and how and where you stand.
5 Tips for Safer Belaying
Internationally certified mountain guide Rob Coppolillo shares five ways to ensure a safer belay.
For Safety’s Sake, Don’t Do This: Speed Lowering
Gyms have a lot of rules and some of them might irritate you, but speed lowering is never a good idea
Unbelayvable: The Strolling Belay
Check out Corey Buhay's author page.
Belaying 5.14: Lost Between the Roles of Parent and Climbing Partner
I wanted the send as much as my son. Invested emotionally in his success and full of doubt about my own belaying ability, could I be the partner he needed on his hardest route?
Characteristics Of the World’s Best Belayer
Embody these seven characteristics and you’ll have a better chance at becoming the belayer your partner deserves.
Monday’s Climbing Gear Hacks: Emergency Belay Device, A Poop Bag, Repurposed Fanny Pack
Our savvy readers submitted these four tips from the field that can help you out of a tight spot, or just make your day at the crag or on the wall more efficient and enjoyable.
Climbing Holiday Gift Guide: Metolius Upshot Belay Glasses
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
The A+ Belay: Making the Grade, One Life at a Time
Check out Heather Weidner's author page.
Climbing Holiday Gift Guide: Y&Y Classic Belay Glasses
Save your neck
Unsent: The Ultimate Belay Test
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Your First 7 Climbing Partners
Check out Bailey Batchelor's author page.
The LSD Lower: How to Lower in Guide Mode
Learn to lower a climber while using a belay device in guide mode
Learn This: Belay Extensions
Improve multi-pitch communication by adjusting belay position
2017 Belay Device Review: Edelrid Mega Jul Sport Belay Device
Check out James Lucas's author page.
2017 Belay Device Review: Mad Rock Lifeguard
Check out James Lucas's author page.
2017 Belay Device Review: Trango Vergo
Check out James Lucas's author page.
2017 Belay Device Review: Petzl Grigri+
Check out James Lucas's author page.
2017 Belay Device Review: Wild Country Revo
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Unbelayvable: A Belayer Chocolate Break
SCARY (AND TRUE) TALES FROM A CRAG NEAR YOU
Unbelayvable: Tunes Over Safety
SCARY (AND TRUE) TALES FROM A CRAG NEAR YOU
Unbelayvable: Alan, You’re Off Belay
SCARY (AND TRUE) TALES FROM A CRAG NEAR YOU
AAC Universal Belay Standard: Details Matter
Check out The Editors's author page.
AAC Universal Belay Standard: Lead Belaying
Check out The Editors's author page.
AAC Universal Belay Standard: Toproping
Check out The Editors's author page.
No Belayer Necessary: Understanding Autobelays
A look into the inner workings of the popular gym belay system
Ask Answer Man: Belay Responsibly
Answer Man discusses the crappy belayer (From 2016)
Unbelayvable: Learning on the Fly
SCARY (AND TRUE) TALES FROM A CRAG NEAR YOU
Unbelayvable: Ledges and Slack
SCARY (AND TRUE) TALES FROM A CRAG NEAR YOU
Unbelayvable: A Toprope of Dubious Quality
SCARY (AND TRUE) TALES FROM A CRAG NEAR YOU
Sponsor Content: Are Self-Braking Belay Devices Hands-Free?
Ask a Technical Expert.
Editors' Choice Classic: Petzl Grigri Belay Device
Check out The Editors's author page.
How to Maximize Comfort at Hanging Belays
Check out JP Whitehead's author page.
Unbelayvable: A Questionable Belay Location
Scary (and true) tales from a crag near you
Unbelayavable: The Slackline Belay
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Video: Best Practices For Belaying A Second Climber
Check out The Editors's author page.
Unbelayvable: A Belay Too Comfortable
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Unbelayvable: 5 Photos of Absolutely Awful Belayers
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Unbelayvable: I Can't Belay You Right Now, I'm on the Phone
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Unbelayvable: Phantom Belayers and Rappel Close Calls
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Unbelayvable: Bad Anchors And Bad Parents
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
How to Tie an Alpine Girth-Hitch
Check out Blake Herrington's author page.
Rappel to Ascend
Check out Kurt Hicks's author page.
Save Yourself! A Guide to Self-Rescue
Check out Shannon Davis's author page.
The Butterfly Knot
Check out The Editors's author page.
Learn This: Preferred Knots for Rappelling
Check out Rob Hess's author page.