Interview: the First Winter Ascent of Cerro Chaltén’s North Pillar
Even in summer, the 1,250-meter 5.11b is serious: endless crack systems, polished dihedrals, and off-widths on flawless granite. In winter, it's a completely different beast.
Even in summer, the 1,250-meter 5.11b is serious: endless crack systems, polished dihedrals, and off-widths on flawless granite. In winter, it's a completely different beast.
Cristian Brenna is remembered not only for his extraordinary climbing prowess but for his profound human qualities.
With mandatory, sky-hook protected free climbing up to 5.12, ‘Gringos Locos’ is an apt route name.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community.
To keep things sporting, the team kayaked 280 miles, fended off polar bears, dangerously large waves, and their own inexperience in such lightweight boats.
Sergey Nilov and Dmitry Golovchenko climbed some of the world’s hardest alpine walls. But in a heart-breaking twelve months, they were both killed on Gasherbrum IV.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Salvaterra climbed around the world with true dedication—especially in Patagonia. Guidebook author Rolando Garibotti called Salvaterra “The most devoted and committed lover Cerro Torre has ever had.”
'Qué mirás' follows a logical line of weakness—splitter cracks, friction dihedrals, and several punchy roofs—up the center of the East Face for 14 long pitches.
The 30-year-old from France set a blistering record on Broad Peak. Then he took it too far.
Featuring vertical ice and mixed climbing at high altitude, it was of the hardest lines in the Himalaya 46 years ago. Despite many attempts it’s repelled a second ascent until now.
Soloing Everest without supplemental oxygen, in winter, in alpine style, and by a technical route is no small task. How do you stack the odds in your favor? Adopt sport climbing tactics.
The Southeast Ridge has repelled attempts from some of the world’s greatest alpinists. Three climbers have solved another “last great problem” in impressive alpine style.
Check out Federico Bernardi's author page.
Maestri is best known for controversy surrounding climbs on Cerro Torre in Patagonia---his debunked claim of the first ascent of the peak in 1959, and his subsequent Compressor Route on it in 1970---but his other achievements in and around Europe make him a standout figure in world climbing.