Steve Bechtel

It isn't just easy to build endurance on a bouldering wall—it can be more efficient than climbing on a rope.

It’s heinously easy to overdo it on a bouldering board... and overdoing it negates any gains you might make. Planning and discipline play important roles in a healthy board practice.

When we talk about our training, we usually default to talking about how much we do. We talk about hours spent under the hangboard, or how we climbed late into the evening at the crag. Yet the thing we tend to miss, and that is a bigger key to progress, is quality: What, precisely, did we do with those hours and how focused were we?

Build long-term finger strength with structured hangboarding

Coaches are easy to find these days. Good coaches are harder to find.

You can train long or you can train hard, but not both—which is probably why so many of us train power so incorrectly.

Check out Steve Bechtel's author page.

An easily customizable training path to redpointing your hardest routes or boulders