Ethan Morf, the Youngest Person to Free El Cap in a Day, Is Just Getting Started
A profile of the 20-year-old Canadian who sent Free Rider in 18 hours.
A profile of the 20-year-old Canadian who sent Free Rider in 18 hours.
Jordan Cannon and Michael Vaill raced up 8,000 feet of Yosemite granite, with difficulties up to 5.13 and A2.
Yosemite’s Salathé Wall is stunning. It’s also hosted some confusing free ascents.
In his own words, Oliver Tippett reflects on his team’s in-a-day ascent of the ‘Reticent’ (A4+; 2700 feet) on May 24, 2025.
Filmed for climbers and gift-wrapped for the Free Solo mainstream audience, this new feature documentary about Emily Harrington is poised to shake up the all-male El Cap canon.
A lead organizer takes us behind the scenes of the May 20 project.
The Italian climber’s repeat comes 25 years after Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell first freed the classic El Capitan aid route.
Hannes Puman becomes first to send the alt pitch to Changing Corners
Babsi Zangerl just became the first person to free climb a route on El Capitan on her first try, without a fall. Her ascent closes a 30-year chapter of attempts.
I spent 40 days working on Freerider before freeing it in a 16-hour push. Here's what I wish I knew at the start of that process.
“It goes, boys!” Zangerl, 36, blasted up the 3,300-foot Free Rider (VI 5.13a) on her first attempt, without a single fall.
It was the 23-year-old’s third free route on El Cap, after 'Golden Gate' and 'Freerider' in a day.
On big wall climbs, strategy is as important as strength and skill when it comes to determining success and failure.
"After those first few days, I noticed that he hadn’t used the bathroom—he’d been too afraid to remove his harness leg loops. On day four..."
An ascender failure, a gear-stripping fall, a rappelling accident—Two Yosemite veterans analyze five Yosemite accidents and how they could have been prevented. (From 2017)
TM Herbert made the first ascent of the Muir Wall with Yvon Chouinard in 1965. His son followed in his footsteps 55 years later, setting a blistering speed record.
Three greenhorn wall climbers headed up the Big Stone in 1981. They vowed to reach the top or nearly die trying. They got their wish.
The route features hard slab, 5.13+ seams, and a 5.13c finger crack of such high quality that the climbers named the ropelength "As Good as It Gets."
This curated selection of Glen Denny images captures the rawness and wild adventure of Yosemite in the 1960s.
Tactics such as fixed lines left in place, pre-stashing gear, jugger support (a partner jumaring to belay), and rappel rehearsal against traffic flow are often not acknowledged in social posts and news reports.
“Amity doesn’t seem to take rest days. ... That's probably the biggest influence on her impressive ticklist."
Alex Honnold's free solo of El Capitan did not occur in a bubble of solitude and inspiration. In this archive piece, originally published shortly after Honnold's ascent, James Lucas dives into the story (and backstory) of Honnold's path to Freerider.
Hand-placed beaks, anyone?
The staunch Yosemite hardman pioneered modern free climbing ethics, and accomplished first ascents of some of America’s most iconic climbs.
Brent Barghahn and Amity Warme free climbed Freerider (VI 5.13a) in a day without any support or rehearsal.
1:00 a.m., on the way back from the Mountain Room Bar, wet rock after a rain. What could go wrong?
The following photos provide a glimpse into the evolution of Yosemite's climbing scene, including pioneers like Royal Robbins and Warren Harding, as well as present-day badasses like Alex Honnold.
First published in 1994, this interview with the late Jim Bridwell runs the gamut: aid routes, alpinism, fast free climbs, vivid dreams, Patagonia, sport climbing, and more.
The writer and stonemaster John Long dives into the lore (and his own experiences) on his favorite 5.10: The East Buttress of El Cap
Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard, and Chuck Pratt teamed up to take down the first ascent this groundbreaking route on El Capitan.
Check out Hannah Singleton's author page.
Check out Hannah Singleton's author page.
Phillip Bay and Brian Degenhardt were on top of Higher Cathedral Spire when they saw this fearsome act of nature. If you take one thing from the article to which this post is related, it is that rockfall on El Cap and elsewhere is continual—take, and wear, your helmet.
Oh, plus miles of approach and descent for Jordan Cannon and Scott Bennett, who also biked between the walls.
Are you inspired by Alex Honnold? So is his mom, who is the oldest woman to scale El Capitan. Here she shares her thoughts on how essential a little inspiration can be.
Adams and Wickstrom establish 1,100 feet of new terrain; Warme and Karow go ground up on all-team-free ascent.
Seven times up El Cap is the lucky number for Squamish big wall climber
“It’s cool doing an older route that doesn’t get climbed. That’s part of the appeal.”
Goris, who climbed 5.14 trad earlier this year, sent the legendary 35-pitch route in a mere five days.
Starting on May 21, wilderness permits will be required for all those who climb overnight in the Park. We talked with the park's Climbing Rangers and the American Alpine Club to learn more.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Sonnie Trotter's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Adam Nawrot's author page.
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Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.
Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.
Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.
Check out Bennett Slavsky's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Alexa Flower's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Jess Dankenbring's author page.
Check out Gina Freund's author page.
Check out Rex Dangerman's author page.
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Meet the YOSAR beast and onetime Nose speed record holder
Are big-wall speed climbers pushing too far?
Check out Kevin Riley's author page.
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Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out David Allfrey's author page.
Notable previous Nose record holders lend perspective to Honnold’s and Caldwell’s sub-two-hour ascent
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out Chris Van Leuven's author page.
Check out Jeff Chapman's author page.
Brandon Adams and Kristoffer Wickstrom spent 10 days opening thin seams next to Yosemite's most-famous big wall route.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
This story originally appeared in the December/January 2018 issue of our print edition.