Brooke Raboutou Solves ‘Excalibur,’ Becoming First Woman to Climb 5.15c
Raboutou reveals why she wrote a letter to the route—and the beta that unlocked her success
Raboutou reveals why she wrote a letter to the route—and the beta that unlocked her success
He needed “only” 60 days for the climb, he says. But it felt like a longer process. We chatted with him about it.
Schubert hasn’t commented on the grade or the final name for the new climb—but by all accounts it’s at least 5.15c
After over a year of effort, Sharma clipped the chains on 'Sleeping Lion,' his second 5.15c. We caught up with Sharma to hear more about his process, training, and how he’s managed to balance his family, career, and climbing goals.
We interviewed the 24-year-old Spanish phenom about his new 5.15c. Díaz-Rullo became the eighth climber (and first Spaniard) to climb the grade
The Italian climber reckons the line goes at 5.15c, making it Italy’s hardest route.
Bouin FA’d the route, “Nordic Marathon,” earlier this year. It ascends through the steepest part of the Hanshelleren Cave and gives a new definition to the word long.
A first ascent of a 5.15c—Zvěřinec, then a first ascent of a V15/V16, and then a 5.14d onsight. Adam Ondra may have just had the best week of climbing ever.
Suprême Jumbo Love (5.15c) is a 65-foot direct start to Jumbo Love: America’s first 5.15b.
Last month Bouin got the first repeat of an Ondra 5.15b (downgrading it to 5.15a after finding a kneebar) and FA’d a 430-foot long 5.15b/c. Now, with Adam Ondra’s “Change,” he’s added another 5.15c to his epic summer ticklist.
“If you knew nothing about the crag, you’d look at the line from the ground and be like ‘Wow. No. That’s totally crazy. I will never be able to do that.’ But when I knew the crag and the style and the kneebars and how to take down the rope, I was like ‘Yeah, it’s possible.’ ”
On July 21, Bouin made the first ascent of Nordic Marathon, in Flatanger, Norway. The route ascends through the steepest part of the Hanshelleren Cave and gives a new definition to the word long.
65 moves, six v11-v12 boulder problems, and no rests. Domen Škofic, a Lead World Cup Champion, thinks it clocks in at 5.15c.
He became the third person in the world to climb a proposed 9c (5.15d) with a repeat of Bibliographie, but later suggested 5.15c
Bosi made the first ascent of a new route in Siurana called King Capella. While the 9b+ grade will need to be confirmed, the young climber's other nails-hard redpoints would suggest the grade will stick.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
The route marked Ghisolfi's second 5.15c to date
After more than three weeks of work, 24-year-old Alex Megos from Frankenjura, Germany, made the FA of Perfecto Mundo at Finestra in Margalef, Spain, ticking his first 5.15c.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.