How Did Two Longtime Pro Climbers Forget to Tie Their Knots?
"The last thing I remember after reaching the chains at the top of the route is landing feet first on the ground, crumpling in a heap."
John Long
John Long
We Stole the Preacher’s Food and Ran For It. I Had to Come Clean
A gang of Camp 4’s hungriest showed up for an orthodox affair fielded by the Arise and Shine Pentecostal Church out of Modesto, California. We’d never seen so much grub...
Ripcord: A Story of Fame, Love, and Tragedy
The void swallowed him alive, his streaking form more easily imagined than described. The air froze in my chest.
The Third Man: How a Dead Alpinist Saved Me From the Grave
The tent flap was thrown open and I saw, or thought I saw, a hooded figure, waving a gloved hand and yelling, “Come on. Get over here!” I was worse off than I thought. Seeing and hearing things.
Three Timeless Stories by Stonemaster John Long
John Long is one of climbing's most prolific authors. He's also one of its most beloved characters.
The Untold Story Behind the 1977 Yosemite Plane Crash—and the 6,000 Pounds of Weed On Board
When an airplane smuggling a load of high-grade marijuana crashed in a Yosemite lake, a gold rush of climbers hauled out a fortune in brick weed right under the noses of the authorities.
Royal Scam, A Route 44 Years In The Making
It was an artful deceit, a blurring of fact that eventually led to one of Yosemite's finest routes.
The Gravity Of Witnessing Death On El Cap
As a teenager he saw a terrible accident on El Capitan. A chance meeting 40 years later finally brought closure.
When Bouldering Becomes Soloing And You Love It
Young and eager for adventure the author and his gang of few pushed bouldering standards higher and higher until the line between bouldering and soloing vanished.
There’s Only One Rule That Counts in Climbing (And in Life). Don’t Forget It.
Stonemaster John Long recounts his time with Jeff, a one-time climbing bum and the son of an affluent family. Jeff leaves climbing and dutifully follows his family's riches, while John stays true to the only rule that counts.
Voodoo Child, The Legend Of Richard Harrison
John Long recounts his wild adventures with a fellow Stonemaster you might not know about, but should.
Free Solo Rock Climbing and the Climbers Who Have Defined the Sport
Free soloing means climbing with no rope, a genre that verged into American consciousness in the 1970s. In 2018 it blew up, with Alex Honnold's mind-bending solo of El Capitan and the award-winning film that chronicled it. Let's take a look back.
An Epic-Laced History of El Cap’s Easiest Route
The writer and stonemaster John Long dives into the lore (and his own experiences) on his favorite 5.10: The East Buttress of El Cap
How John Long Found Himself Ropeless on a Rainy Slab—And How He Stayed Alive
Guided by Herman Buhl's famous "truisms," a young John Long gets into a ropeless jam high on Tahquitz Rock.
Stonemaster John Long Comes Clean on Alcoholism
Climbing has long celebrated hard drinking and drugs. Many climbers become lifelong alcoholics and addicts and their families, friends and climbing partners bear the high price. One of climbing's most iconic figures fell into the pit, but pulled himself out and now has an important lesson every climber should read.
Three Classic Climbing Tales By John Long
Check out John Long's author page.
Nine More Hours to Heathrow: Stonemaster John Long’s Latest Fiction Masterpiece
From Long's latest book "Icarus Syndrome", this chapter weaves a hair-raising tale of fate, trauma, and mountain endeavors.
John Long: Violating Sacrosanct Trad Ethics Was, Ironically, Liberating
Clipping bolts back when ground up was the only way to climb almost felt illegal, immoral even, but even a diehard tradster and Stonemaster like John Long could see the light.
Yosemite Legend John Long Recounts The First Free Ascent of Astroman
I hated this situation. I loved it, too. Not a soul, not even God, stood between me and the decision I faced. Do or fly.
Woman Dies In Climbing Gym In Auto-Belay Accident
Check out Michael Levy's author page.
The Only Blasphemy. A Solo Outing With John Bachar Puts the Author Face to Face With His Mortality
Decades before John Bachar died in a solo fall, he took John Long on a ropeless "Half Dome": They'd climb 2,000 feet at Joshua Tree—without a rope.
Hangdog Days: You're All Wankers
Check out Jeff Smoot's author page.
Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag—The Stonemasters (Part 3)
Check out The Editors's author page.
Jim Bridwell's Last Interview
Check out The Editors's author page.