Endurance

Whether your project is four bolts or forty, you’ve got to be able to hang on for the ride.

Let’s dive into the nitty-gritty of climbing physiology and then discuss training takeaways. This is Part I of a science-based series on how to train smarter to climb better.

Not all climbing sessions are equal. Pick the wrong one and you'll waste time and not improve.

“If you knew nothing about the crag, you’d look at the line from the ground and be like ‘Wow. No. That’s totally crazy. I will never be able to do that.’ But when I knew the crag and the style and the kneebars and how to take down the rope, I was like ‘Yeah, it’s possible.’ ”

Getting pumped on a grade that within your limits? Then you lack Local Endurance. The good news is this simple training plan will address that weakness and have you hanging on virtually forever.

Everything's here, from fingerboarding to power, endurance and strength training. Includes expert advice on getting stronger fingers, shoulders, abs, you name it and if you want to train it up, this soup-to-nuts compendium has it.

Directly linked to mental composure (hence technique) under duress, physical fitness, and your ability to recover, your heart rate is the engine driving your rock climbing. No surprise, then, that training with a heart-rate monitor (HRM) can be hugely beneficial.

The main thing that scientists have learned in the last decade is that we can use nutrition to trigger the release of the specific enzymes or hormones that play vital roles in the processes of getting strong or improving endurance.

For the sixth phase we’re returning to low-intensity endurance to top up our fitness levels for longer routes.

Check out Emily Ipsen BS CHN CNTP & MNT's author page.

Check out Neil Gresham's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Hailey Moore's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Train for better endurance and power-endurance on the “gerbil wheel”

Check out The Editors's author page.