Struggling With Powerful Moves? Don’t Just Train Your Fingers.
When we fail on large moves, most of us tend to think we just need to pull more and pull harder—and our training reflects this bias toward the upper body.
When we fail on large moves, most of us tend to think we just need to pull more and pull harder—and our training reflects this bias toward the upper body.
Many of us attempt to perform at our highest ability all the time. With access to outdoor climbing and the constant availability of the gym, it’s easy to be in “go” mode 24/7. However, in order to push to your true limits, you also need careful planning and preparation to create discrete performance peaks.
Climbing is a unique sport that requires both strength and technique. But it can be difficult to figure out where to focus your efforts: Do I need to get stronger? Do I need to improve my movement skills? Do I need to do both? The answer can be surprising.
We all seem to have some notion, likely passed on by a mentor or seen in a climbing video, of how long to rest between boulder problems or pitches, especially at max effort. But do these “tried and true” rules really hold up? And could we be resting smarter?
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