Compared to sending a project, the idea of warming up is exruciatingly boring, so much so that you might be tempted to skip the proper pre-climb procedures. But getting your body ready to send is an essential step. Not enough warm-up and you might end up with a killer flash-pump on that onsight burn, or worse, a season-ending finger injury. Overdo it and you might be too fatigued to effectively train or climb. If you don’t already have your own tried and true warm-up ritual, consider incorporating the below suggestions into your routine to prepare your body for success. Whether you’re roping up outside for a techy onsight at your limit or simply trying to leave the gym with intact tendons, these pointers will ease you into send-mode with confidence.

1. Get the Blood Moving

Ten minutes of walking, biking, or jogging gets the heart circulating blood around the body while simultaneously warming up the often-overlooked leg muscles. Most of the time, the approach to the crag will suffice, but for roadside attractions or gyms, try to spend at least five minutes on your feet, walking around to check out different climbs or saying hi to friends. Some light cardio improves circulation and starts delivering blood and oxygen to all the muscles in your body, stocking them with the fuel necessary to perform.

2. Loosen Up

The classic concept of stretching involves holding a certain pose for 15 to 30 seconds, but recent sports science research shows that this form of static stretching actually decreases muscle output. Instead, dynamic stretching with rotational movements offers more benefit to muscles by adding an element of momentum to flexibility and by simulating the types of strain muscles undergo while climbing. Biologically, dynamic stretches lube up the joints and tendons vital to climbing, which increases muscle performance and reduces the risk of injury. Static stretching is still useful on rest days or after activity as a supplementary tool to improve overall flexibility. We recommend a few minutes of the following stretches to kick off your session.

Head Rolls

These are especially good for steep climbing where you’ll be craning your neck to look up and for boulderers who will be falling and jarring their neck and upper back. Let your head completely relax forward, then slowly roll your head in a circle, five times in both directions. Make sure to keep it as loose as possible all the way around to really stretch and awaken those muscles. This will also help align the vertebrae in your back to prevent injuries.

Windmills

Keeping your arms straight, swing them slowly in a circle, making sure to rotate at the shoulders. Don’t just throw them around, but keep the circles controlled the whole way around. Go five times in both directions, one arm at a time. Now put arms straight out and do smaller, even more controlled circles (just a few inches around) forward then backward; do both arms at once. Shoulders are among the most commonly injured joints in the climber’s body and can be easily ignored when climbing easy routes, so this stretch focuses on your shoulder joints while sending blood to muscles in your forearms and tissues in your fingers.

Side Twists

Lie down with your feet on the floor and knees bent. Lift your upper body slightly off the ground with your hands on your stomach. Rotate your upper body slowly and deliberately from side to side, engaging your abs similar to the Russian twist exercise. This shouldn’t feel like a full-on ab workout, but this stretch will get your core engaged right off the bat. Aim for twisting to each side at least five times, rest a minute, and repeat.

Walking Lunges

These will get your entire lower body and core moving and ready to climb. Keeping your body upright, step forward with one leg and slowly drop down into a lunge until your lunging leg’s knee is a few inches off the ground. As you stand back up, smoothly step forward with the other leg and drop down into a lunge. Repeat until you’ve done about 10 lunges on each leg.

• Related: The Training Bible: A Full Year’s Training Plan

3. Pyramid Climbing

Now that your blood is pumping, your joints are limber, and your body is ready to work, it’s time to climb! While most people understand they need to start with climbs well under their limit, the best warm-up sequence actually builds in difficulty up to just under your personal maximum.

For both bouldering and sport climbing, the first problem or route should fall well within the climber’s ability. For instance, a V7 boulderer should start with several V2s and V3s, while a 5.12 sport climber might start with two laps on a 5.10. The goal of this first route is both to engage all the little muscle groups used in climbing and to mentally refresh good technique. If the first climb feels at all pumpy or strenuous, immediately drop down a grade. After resting about five minutes, get on a few problems or one route that is slightly harder than the first round: two to three grades under your limit for boulderers and a full number grade less for sport climbers. The V7 boulderer should work a V5, and the 5.12 climber should try a 5.11. Rest another few minutes—enough to fully depump—and get on your final warm-up climb of the day: something right below your limit that mimics the style of your project for the day.

V4 Boulderer Pyramid Warm-Up

5.12 Sport Climber Pyramid Warm-Up

4. Rest

After this warm-up sequence, it’s important to rest properly, but be careful not to cool down too much, which will lead you to the dreaded flash-pump. Since boulderers spend much less time on the rock, a 10-minute final rest should suffice. Sport climbers should aim for 15 minutes.

This article originally appeared in the September 2015 issue of our print edition.

The post This Is the Single Best Way to Boost Climbing Performance appeared first on Climbing.

This 15-minute circuit of exercises strengthens your core and stabilizes your shoulders to effectively eliminate weak spots in your overall fitness. Plus, it will keep you in shape when you can’t get to the gym.

The TRX (total resistance exercise) suspension trainer utilizes two adjustable straps with handles for use in bodyweight resistance exercises. Many gyms have TRX systems, but you can also get an at-home kit ($200, trxtraining.com) or build your own. Suspension training engages those tiny stabilizing muscles in your core, shoulders, legs, and back that are necessary for climbing but often ignored by traditional weight machines and dumbbell exercises. We worked with Fraser Quelch, Head of Training for TRX, to put together this three-part circuit (10 exercises total) specifically for climbers, focusing on strengthening injury-prone areas and weak spots in a quick 15 minutes.

Suspension Training Guidelines

• Do this 2x/week on rest days.
• Do each exercise at least once, but you can do up to 3 sets of each exercise.
• Transition and rest 30 seconds between each exercise and 2 minutes between each round or circuit.
• Mid-calf (see below) means stirrups should come to mid-calf. “Long” is slightly longer than that; “short” is shorter.

Need a suspension trainer on the cheap? Check out our guide:
Make Your Own Suspension Trainer on a Budget

Circuit 1

Core Round 1. Targeting core stability and strength, all of these workouts directly translate to better performance on steep sections, where body tension, deliberate foot placement, and staying close to the wall are crucial.

1. Body Saw. 8 reps; mid-calf length

In forearm plank position (toes flexed downward in stirrups), place elbows under shoulders. Slowly push your body as far forward as possible, and then backward to complete one rep. Don’t let hips sag. To increase difficulty, try the workout with hands on the floor and straight arms.

Helps with: Body control while moving, high-stepping, staying tight on overhangs, preventing barn doors

2. Side Plank with Hip Raise. 8 reps (per side); mid-calf length

Start in pushup position then turn into side plank position (elbow under shoulder and top arm straight toward sky). Place feet in stirrups with top foot in front, heel to toe. With straight legs, raise hips up slightly then return to starting position for one rep.

Helps with: Drop-knees, cutting feet, high heel hooks

3. Overhead Squat. 8 reps; mid-calf length

Stand with feet shoulder-width apart, facing the anchor point. Place your hands inside the stirrups with the backs of your hands against the straps, thumbs on the outside. Raise hands above your head wider than your shoulders. Without leaning, squeeze your upper back to put tension on the straps. Maintain this tension with chest forward and eyes up, then squat down as low as you can. In the bottom of the squat, squeeze shoulders and back for more tension, then stand up for one rep.

Helps with: Preventing hunchback, opening chest, hip strength and flexibility for steeps, body tension

Circuit 2

Shoulder Stability. These exercises isolate and strengthen the entire shoulder girdle, which is prone to injury in climbers, by putting the shoulder in positions that are specific to climbing. It also builds strength and flexibility throughout the upper back.

1. Clock Press. 3 reps; long adjustment

With heels up, lean into the stirrups in a low-angle pushup position. Lower your chest to your hands, then slowly extend one arm out to the side, pause, and bring it back. Repeat with opposite arm, then push back to start for one rep. Go closer to the ground to make it harder.

Helps with: Compression, sidepulls, preventing shoulder injuries

2. Deltoid Series: T to Y to I. 8 reps; long adjustment

Put one foot in front of the other with arms in front holding straps. For “T,” stand up by putting arms out to the sides, shifting weight from back to front, and squeezing shoulder blades. Lower back down, then repeat in “Y” (image 2), lower, then arms straight up for “I” (image 3); that’s one rep.

Helps with: Overhanging shoulder-specific moves, gastons, sidepulls, compression

3. Atomic Pushup Matrix. 8 reps; mid-calf length

In a pushup position with feet in stirrups, bring your knees into left elbow with slight rotation, back to start, then knees into right elbow, back to start. Bring knees straight up to chest, back to start, and then do a pushup for one rep.

Helps with: High foot placement and heel hooks, body tension, strengthening opposition muscles, core stability

4. T-Spine Rotation. 8 reps (per side); short adjustment

With inside foot in front of outer foot, hold handle with outside hand in a lockoff position, elbow high. With inside hand parallel to straps, lower as far as possible, then extend arm out to the side. Bring arm back and pull yourself up to starting position. Switch feet to make it easier.

Helps with: Lockoffs, hip, spine, and shoulder flexibility, controlling moves on steeps

Circuit 3

Core Round 2. More isolated and advanced core exercises for keeping tension with one foot on.

1. Pike. 8 reps; mid-calf length

In pushup position with feet in stirrups, lift tailbone up with legs straight. Lower back to start position to complete one rep.

Helps with: High-stepping, holding a swing, body tension

2. Rotational Warding with March. 8 reps (per side); mid-calf length

Stand sideways with hands in both stirrups in a prayer position. Push hard to the side with straight arms to keep straps under tension. Now slowly march by raising each knee.

Helps with: Holding barn-door swings, core strength, body tension

3. Plank with Abduction and Scorpion. 8 reps (per side); mid-calf length

In pushup position with one foot in stirrups, bring free knee to chest, then back to start. Extend leg out to the side (abduction), back to start. Now twist at the hips to swing leg back and over other leg so hips are open (scorpion).

Helps with: Single-leg strength, hip flexibility, back-stepping, high-stepping, body tension

[Also Read: This Is the Single Best Way to Boost Climbing Performance]

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Loved. Hated. Feared. Revered. No other type of hold evokes such a wide array of emotional responses as the sloper. While these rounded and relatively featureless holds (usually devoid of any real edges or bumps to grip) may be aesthetically pleasing, they present an interesting conundrum for many climbers. Unlike other holds, such as crimps or edges, where one can usually just pull down harder, slopers require more finesse than brute strength. After all, there’s little to pull down on in the first place. Here’s the secret: It has little to do with actual finger strength; it’s all about body positioning and hand contact. Unfortunately there’s no end-all, be-all solution to every sloper move and hold out there, but with a few tried-and-true techniques, you’ll start to gain a mastery of these rounded, polished bumps with aplomb, whether it’s an angular granite arête or a slam-dunk sandstone basketball.

Body Position

This is the primary and most crucial component to improving sloper-climbing technique. Analyze the hold and the subsequent movement required to get to the next hold. Consider what direction your hand will pull most effectively against it—down, sideways, out, etc.—and where the rest of your body will be when you make first contact. Imagine a line going from that direction of pull through your hips to one of your lower extremities. Use this line to orient your body so that you’re maximizing opposition against the hold. Keep everything—feet, legs, back, core, shoulders, and arms—as tight as possible, from first contact to moving off, to maintain your position and keep your torso as close to the wall as possible. Heel and toe hooks can be crucial to staying in close, too.

Hands

Examine the holds closely to identify the most textured areas (small dimples and edges) and how you want your hand on them to make the most of those features. Try slightly angling your wrist left or right to make it feel more positive; meat hooks can maximize friction and employ larger muscle groups. Often on large, rounded slopers, it’s advantageous to spread your fingers as wide as possible, like you’re palming a basketball. In this case, use your palm and fingertips to press and squeeze the entire hold while maximizing surface contact. On flatter ledges, the best hand position might be fingers together, pressing down by bending at the base of the fingers. Since slopers are generally large features, there can be numerous ways to hold them, so experiment to find the best grip.

Angle

Slabs: Think about holding your body in place while moving your feet up. Trust in the friction, move slowly, and step up. Once your weight is even with or above the sloper, use it as a mantel by pushing downward.

Vertical to slightly overhanging: Keep arms straight and hips low and sucked into the wall. Once your core sags, you will lose opposition and be forced to rely on pure finger strength. It might help to limit breathing during these short moves.

Steeps: Bend your arms to engage your shoulders, back, and biceps. This also gets your core more involved. Cup your hands and press with your fingertips. These might require more dynamic movement than lower angles, so focus on contact strength by going in strong and holding on tight once you hit it.

Squeezing the life out of slopers

With Meagan Martin

Mental Approach
Know you’re going to exert a lot of big-muscle energy. Move quickly and efficiently by being fluid and static—avoid dynoing and campusing. The same applies to routes: Tackle slopers quickly and utilize rests. Staying calm is important; focus on slow, deliberate breathing. You might feel less comfortable and solid, and knowing the beta might not make the hold feel any better, but it will help your confidence. Relax and don’t get flustered.

Technique
Try hard! Squeeze with your hands and maximize opposition between holds by engaging your big muscles: shoulders, back, biceps, and core. If one holding method isn’t working, rethink it and experiment. Every little change in grip could matter. Try fingers together, apart, Spock grip, crimp, and pinch. For bigger slopers, relocate your entire hand. Some are blocky, so use the edge as an open-hand crimp. Others are shallow, so use body tension to stay close to the wall.

Training
Simulate every size, shape, and movement in the gym, focusing on footwork and body tension. The latter is important: It keeps your feet on and maintains that imaginary line. Climbing on overhangs is great for your core; every day spent on steep walls is a day spent improving tension. In addition to just climbing, I like to do core-specific exercises like V-ups, leg lifts, hollow body rocks, and plank variations.

Confidence
This is key; hesitation opens the door to failure. When I go for a sloper, I do just that—I go for it! I don’t hesitate. I am 100% committed.

Temperature
Some problems just will not go in hot, humid conditions. Dry hands and cold temps maximize friction and can be the solution. If you’re greasing off in the middle of July, wait and come back in colder months. Read more about the science of friction.

• Related: “Stop Falling Off Slopers! Expert Tips For Training Compression” by Chris Schulte

This story originally appeared in the January 2015 issue of our print edition.

The post How to Climb Slopers? Hint: It’s All About Body Position appeared first on Climbing.

This article originally appeared in the September 2015 issue of our print edition. 

Fifteen years ago, Pete Mortimer was just another climber with a camera dangling a few hundred feet off the ground in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. But seven feature-length films, a National Geographic Channel television series, and 10 REEL ROCK Film Tours later, his talent, drive, and knack for storytelling has morphed into a multi-faceted climbing film company. Mortimer, now 41, attributes his success and longevity to thinking forward and not looking back. “We don’t want to make the last film again. We want to make the next film,” he says. “A lot of stuff we get pitched is just like a film we’ve already made, but we’re always looking for what’s totally unexpected.” In an age where every climber with a GoPro or smartphone is a potential “adventure filmmaker,” Mortimer’s strategy has kept his company, Sender Films, at the top of the game.

Mortimer grew up climbing in Boulder, Colorado, and eventually ended up in grad school for film in Los Angeles. After an internship at MGM Studios, he decided commercial film wasn’t for him, and in 1999 Mortimer started Sender out of his shed in Boulder. When his early feature films “Scary Faces” and “Front Range Freaks” garnered praise from both climbing and film communities in Boulder and Los Angeles, he quickly saw the potential of this new media niche. Mortimer recognized that he would need to work with other established filmmakers to deliver better content to a larger audience, so he teamed up with Josh Lowell of BigUP Productions and Nick Rosen to put together a veritable supergroup. Sender Films suddenly shifted from pet project to legitimate career.

In Mortimer’s mind, the idea of community is the characteristic that prompted these major partnerships and has in turn made Sender so successful. “You have to look at the bigger picture. Everyone wants to do bigger, cooler, more exciting stuff. You can’t just compete with the people around you,” he says. “You have to look at the big indie filmmakers or the big commercial directors and try to compete with them. And the only way any of us [in the climbing media industry] are going to do that is by standing on each other’s shoulders and helping each other out.” That includes marrying signature styles, like BigUP’s hard-core climbing action, striking cinematography, and challenging ascents with Sender’s focus on humor, personal relationships, and the mental aspects of our sport. Mortimer says that the best films are stocked with both.

After so many years of telling climbing stories—often with the same players—finding original and interesting ideas in the climbing world might seem somewhat impossible, but Mortimer is confident that they’ve only barely scratched the surface. “We’re getting really good at finding those little story nuggets,” he explains. Sometimes it’s as easy as showcasing one huge personality and the person’s vision, like Sharma in “King Lines,” and other times it means bouncing personalities off each other, like Obe Carrion and Ashima Shiraishi in “Obe & Ashima.” The latter is a storyline that’s driven movies, books, and television for centuries: “Two characters that are alive and have their own objectives. They’re struggling, helping each other, hurting each other,” Mortimer explains. “It makes a film exciting.”

While many might see Mortimer’s job and position in the climbing community as living the dream, his passion for filmmaking is constantly at odds with his love of climbing. Between family time and running a business, his climbing time has been reduced to practically zero. “In the short-term, I could give up climbing for filmmaking, but not in the long-term. I like being involved in creative stuff, but climbing is just in my blood.”

How to Make Better Climbing Films

1. Start Somewhere

The first film I made was “Scary Faces” about the climbing in Eldorado Canyon, and I had no idea what I was doing—but that was totally OK! It was a starting point. You need that initial project in order to make mistakes and learn and grow. I may have been a novice, but when I went to make the next film, I had experience to build on.

2. Teamwork

When I first started, it was harder to tell stories because I was working alone. Now I work with four or five people all trying to one-up each other, which ultimately makes the film better. When I share an idea, my peers think of ways to improve it. The result is greater than the sum of its parts. Teamwork makes the dream work!

3. Avoid the Soul-Suck

Filmmaking is tedious. When you’re starting out, it can be soul-sucking. It helps to build a team of people that specialize in the stuff you don’t like or aren’t good at. I don’t edit or really film anymore, and I definitely don’t manage people, but I have a team to do all of that so I can do what I love: be creative!

4. Big Picture

Climbers will always love to watch climbing. But some of the best stories appeal to climbers and non-climbers alike. Alex Honnold was on “60 Minutes” because his story is bigger than climbing, and it picked up interest in the mainstream. Those are the big picture stories with broader appeal you want to find.

5. Innovate

Don’t tell a story that’s already out there; try to move your craft forward with everything you do. Look for new stories and new ways to tell them. When we set out to do “Valley Uprising,” the vision was to put you into the history rather than just tell you what happened. The result is a unique take on an otherwise simple story.

Read More: Video: “The Alpinist” Trailer With Marc-André Leclerc Will Blow Your Mind

The post Peter Mortimer, Director of “The Alpinist”, On How to Make Better Climbing Films appeared first on Climbing.

This story originally appeared in the October 2015 issue of our print edition.

We’re all looking for a Cinderella moment. Of course, finding that perfect kick is more difficult than ever in the rapidly expanding world of sticky rubber. This year, we spent more than six months testing 10 top contenders to find the best kicks for whatever your shoe stash is missing. With options spanning from aggressive sending shoes to comfy all-day foot armor to high-performance all-arounders, the testing field was more competitive than ever. Our testers scaled Boulder Canyon sport and trad lines, picked their way up holey limestone in Wild Iris, slapped some Chattanooga sandstone, and strapped in for enduro alpine routes in the Tetons to come away with these five top-notch pairs.

Hard Sport Hero 

Review: Boreal Kintaro
The Kintaro delivers exactly what you want from a medium-aggressive performance shoe: superb edging, power on steep terrain, and comfort for longer pitches. Read the full review.

Ladies’ Comfortable Versatility 

Review: Lowa Women’s Sparrow
These durable queens of comfort are tailored to any climber who wants a sizeable step up in performance from pure-comfort shoes without losing ease of wear. Read the full review.

Multi-Discipline Master 

Review: Five Ten Verdon
The Verdon ups the ante for the classic all-around, medium-high performance shoe, offering more comfort and precision from slabs to steeps than any comparable shoe on the market. Read the full review.

Agressive Senders 

Review: Butora Acro
With a downturned shape, added toe rubber, and sensitivity through the midfoot, the Acro delivers on the steeps and techy vertical alike. Read the full review.

Quiver of One

Review: Boreal Lynx
Improved fit and feel make the updated Lynx more comfortable than previous versions, while a new randing system and stickier rubber increase performance on all angles, rock types, and objectives. Read the full review.

Understand the Upper

The material in your shoe’s upper makes a huge difference in fit, feel, and performance. Leather was used in the first renditions of boots of all types; it’s a flexible yet durable material made from animal rawhide, and it stretches under pressure, forming to the shape of your foot. The tanning process in leather-making permanently alters the protein structure of the fabric, making it durable, supple, and less susceptible to decomposition. It’s usually best to downsize leather rock shoes up to a whole size. Synthetic uppers are man-made polymers, like nylon or polyester, that are woven together to create a fabric that is just as durable as leather, without the stretch. Synthetics also tend to wick sweat better and are more breathable. Some companies use a combination of materials strategically, placing leather to stretch in tight spots (over toe knuckles) and synthetic (top of the foot) to hold shape and keep the foot cooler. —Owen Silitch

The post Review: 5 Rock Climbing Shoe Picks appeared first on Climbing.

“The capabilities and handling of a sports car hiding in the body of a reliable, durable midsize sedan,” said one tester of these all-around climbing kicks. “Take them to the long roofs of the Gunks then the footwork-intensive verts of Smith and on down to the steep goodness of the Red River Gorge; you can’t find a better shoe that has such top-notch performance for all.” A slight downturn, roomy forefoot, and narrower heel offer unbeatable versatility and performance without forfeiting any comfort; testers wore these on all-day routes just as much as redpointing sport lines on the limestone of Wyoming. One major improvement in this iteration (the Lynx has been in the line before) is the new V2 Rand that wraps from the ball of the foot back up around the heel, with a secondary rubber strap just on the heel to tighten the shoe across the entire rear of the foot. “Most rands just pull tight over the Achilles, but when I cinch down the laces, I can feel the entire back of the shoe swaddle my foot and give me more accuracy and strength.” A padded Neoprene tongue contributes to comfort, and a relatively soft midsole improves smearing ability.

Conclusion

Improved fit and feel make the updated Lynx more comfortable than previous versions, while a new randing system and stickier rubber increase performance on all angles, rock types, and objectives.

$149; e-boreal.com

Further Reading
Review: 5 Superb Rock Climbing Shoes

The post Review: Boreal Lynx Climbing Shoe appeared first on Climbing.

Butora, a 2-year-young shoe company based in Aurora, Colorado, hit it out of the park on their first attempt at an aggressive performance shoe. With a super-sharp downturn and baby-soft sensitivity, the Acro manages to push the boundaries of the high-performance spectrum. “The shoe just lasers in on precise foot placements and pockets,” one tester said after bouldering pocketed sandstone roofs in Rocktown, Georgia. “It just swoops right in there and sticks!” Testers found that the extra-high level of performance didn’t mean sacrificing ease of wear, either. The inner sock lining drastically increased comfort, making these surprisingly wearable between burns. Still, the Acros are more redpoint shoes than long-route boots. A single-strap closure system at the ankle cranked down the fit, and an added strip of rubber across the top of the foot made toe hooks absolutely bomber. Keep in mind that the Acro is essentially a slipper, and it can be a pain to get them on and off right out of the box. This does get much easier as the shoe breaks in and softens up, and a piece of plastic bag over the heel helped in the interim. 

Conclusion

With a downturned shape, added toe rubber, and sensitivity through the midfoot, the Acro delivers on the steeps and techy vertical alike. The single-strap closure and inner sock lining allowed for a great fit.

$154; butorausa.com

Further Reading
Review: 5 Superb Rock Climbing Shoes

The post Review: Butora Acro Climbing Shoe appeared first on Climbing.

The inspiration for this shoe is clearly found in its namesake. The Verdon Gorge: a place where precision edging rules, but the big wall route lengths require a comfortable and supportive all-day fit. The brand-new Five Ten Verdon has the right balance of both. After running the shoe up sandstone slabs in Boulder’s Flatirons and low-angle granite routes in the Tetons, one tester’s high expectations were confirmed. “This shoe edges and smears like a champ.” But when putting them to the test on steep and greasy sport routes in Boulder Canyon, the same tester found that the shoes felt soft and precise enough to take on overhangs and offer enough sensitivity for the smallest of smedges. The secret sauce is in Five Ten’s molded thermoplastic 3-D midsole, which is designed in an X-shape and raised in the middle to fill in the dead space that results from engaging your toes on small footholds. Not only does this up comfort, but it also offers more control for your feet. As with any all-around hero, certain disciplines get the short stick here. The Verdon is not quite aggressive enough for hard bouldering or super-steep sport. 

Conclusion

The Verdon ups the ante for the classic all-around, medium-high performance shoe, offering more comfort and precision from slabs to steeps than any comparable shoe on the market.

$160; fiveten.com

Further Reading
Review: 5 Superb Rock Climbing Shoes

The post Review: Five Ten Verdon Climbing Shoe appeared first on Climbing.

Boreal has made some crucial updates to this aggressive, medium-stiff performance shoe. With a wider toe box and a narrower heel, the new last transmits to better footwork on all types of terrain. More room up front gives toes increased power and accuracy, while the smaller heel vacuum-seals the fit for heel hooks and tricky foot maneuvers. Skinny-footed folks, fear not: Testers found they could still get an exact fit thanks to double-wide Velcro straps and a Neoprene tongue that not only wicks sweat but also keeps the shoes comfortable, even when cinching them all the way down. “The split-leather upper stretched nicely, too, offering me what seemed like a personalized fit,” one tester said after two months. A ribbed heel added friction and increased confidence on questionable heel hooks, and the new Zenith rubber recipe was some of the stickiest in our test. While the shoe is most at home on vertical to gently overhanging terrain, the aggressive shape and V2 Rand system (which tightens the shoe down on the whole back of the foot instead of just the heel like other rands) were exceptional for one tester’s alpine bouldering ambitions.

Conclusion 

The Kintaro delivers exactly what you want from a medium-aggressive performance shoe: superb edging, power on steep terrain, and comfort for longer pitches. 

$149; e-boreal.com

Further Reading
Review: 5 Superb Rock Climbing Shoes

The post Review: Boreal Kintaro Climbing Shoe appeared first on Climbing.

With a female-specific last designed to fit a lower volume foot, Lowa’s first stab at a performance shoe for women has a slight downturn and a medium-stiff midsole to excel at a wide variety of angles and climbs. The Sparrow is multi-pitch ready and performed well on every type of terrain from slab to steep. Testers found the overall shape aggressive enough for roofs, and the tapered toe transferred power into the front of the foot while edging. “It’s a perfect balance of comfort and performance,” says one tester, “with a little more focus on performance.” The Sparrow wowed another tester with its unmatched wearability over long stretches of time. She noted that she could “walk around the crag or the gym with these on and not need to take them off,” loving them as a high-mileage gym shoe. A thick section of proprietary LC-SuperGrip rubber under the toe makes the shoes extra durable. Still, the shoes are pretty stiff, so if you prefer a soft and sensitive feel, look elsewhere. Bonus: The Bio-Active inner lining is anti-microbial, saving your climbing partner shoe-smell shock when you open up your crag bag. 

Conclusion

These durable queens of comfort are tailored to any climber who wants a sizeable step up in performance from pure-comfort shoes without losing ease of wear. 

$140; lowaboots.com

Further Reading
Review: 5 Superb Rock Climbing Shoes

The post Review: Lowa Women's Sparrow Climbing Shoe appeared first on Climbing.

This story originally appeared in the August 2015 issue of our print edition. 

Sitting calmly under one of the most storied stretches of limestone on the planet in July 2014, Alex Megos silently rehearses the sequences of Realization/Biographie (5.15a) in his head as he straps on his shoes. He pulls onto the world’s first consensus 5.15 route for the third time ever and silently dispatches the 35-meter line. While impressive by anyone’s standards, sending difficult climbs quickly is Megos’ forte.

In March 2013, Megos onsighted Estado Critico (5.14d) in Siurana, Spain, becoming the first climber to onsight the grade, meaning he successfully climbed it first try without any prior knowledge or beta of the route. A few days later, he almost flashed La Rambla (5.15a), but fell right at the top. He sent it second try, same for a 5.14d called A Muerte, both in Siurana. In October 2012 at the age of 19, Alex made waves in the U.S. after a killer season at the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, where he completed 11 routes in the 5.14 range in three tries or less, including a flash of Pure Imagination (originally 5.14d, downgraded to 5.14c). But his knack for speedy ascents isn’t confined to route climbing. In 2014 Alex returned to the U.S. with his attention turned to hard bouldering. Within a week of arriving, he had sent The Swarm (V13/14), The Buttermilker (V13), and Mandala Sit Start (V14), in Bishop, as well as Meadowlark Lemon (V14) in Red Rock, “spending two short sessions on each problem.”

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“I just don’t like falling; that’s it,” he says of his secret to climbing hard routes fast. He also has a tried-and-true process for working climbs: a positive approach, thoughtful projecting, and efficient attempts. “I convince myself that it’s completely possible,” he says. Once on the wall, he works his way through each move of the route until he’s done them all at least once. “I just tell myself: I did all the moves, so why shouldn’t I just do all the moves in a row now without falling?” He explains, “I just ignore the fact that you get tired or pumped during climbing—and that works very well!”

Megos started climbing in 1998 at the age of five, growing up on the steep limestone walls of Germany’s Frankenjura. At 16, he distinguished himself within the local climbing community through speedy ascents of area standards like Drive by Shooting (5.14b, third try) and Pain Makes Me Feel Stronger Every Day (5.14c). He also flourished in competition climbing, taking home numerous first and second place finishes from 2007 through 2010. “I have good endurance and a very short recovery time after trying something hard, so I can do many tries in a day without decreasing my chance of doing the route because of loss of power,” he says. “My [strength] level stays the same even after a few tries…which increases my chances of climbing a hard route in one day.”

In January 2015, Megos got his first dose of projecting on Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming, a V15 on the iconic Grandpa Peabody boulder in Bishop. “I never really projected anything until now,” he says of the 11 days he spent on the line. He worked the individual moves for six days in a row, took a rest day, and then gave it some serious attempts. On the last go of the day, he cut his fingers and had to take two rest days. His fingers weren’t completely healed, but he said, “I couldn’t have rested any longer, or I would have freaked out!” So he taped up three fingers and sent.

Megos’ stellar track record shows no signs of slowing, and his undying enthusiasm for climbing ensures he will keep pushing the limits of the sport in the years to come. “You get to know so many friends very well, you’ve got a never-ending amount of areas in so many countries, and you’ve got so many different types of rock and so many different styles of climbing; it just never gets boring.”

How to Project Effectively

1. Ignore Beta

Climbers too often focus on making single moves feel easy within technical sequences when onsighting. Sometimes this is necessary, but other times the best solution is to pick a quick sequence that works, even if it feels hard. Don’t get caught up in the details, move quick, keep going, and bear down through the hard stuff!

2. Improve Stamina

When onsighting, time is perhaps the most limiting factor between success and failure. Getting the most out of your time means learning how to climb quickly, but also building your endurance by focusing on training volume so that you can handle more time on the wall if climbing quickly simply doesn’t cut it.

3. Be Positive

From the beginning, I don’t let doubt creep into my head at all. The mantra of the beginner’s mind, with no expectations for success or failure, is a good place to start, but I try also to stay completely focused on the individual movements I already know how to do and on the route as a whole. If you doubt yourself, the battle is already over.

4. Don’t Stress

If I think too much about an onsight attempt, it leads to unnecessary stress, which then leads to nervousness, which probably leads to messing up something simple. I try to manage my emotions and work to stay calm. I onsighted Estado Critico almost by accident, only realizing what I was doing during the last few bolts.

5. Have Fun

If you don’t step out of the stressful aspects of climbing—the grades, expectations, and competitions—and make sure that you’re still having fun, you might lose the enthusiasm and motivation you need to perform. The beauty of climbing is that when one facet begins to frustrate you, there are 10 others to switch to for relief.

The post How to Send Projects With Alex Megos appeared first on Climbing.

This article originally appeared in the March 2015 issue of our print edition.

Scream “Vegas, baby!” and most people will envision loose slots, buffet binges, topless pool parties, or some version of “The Hangover.” But climbers are a different breed. We see a dozen stellar pitches of 5.11 patina face climbing, T-shirt bouldering in January, or full days ascending massive red and gold desert peaks. Truth is, a short drive from the Strip proper plops one at the mouth of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, one of the country’s premier climbing destinations. It’s a beautiful section of the Nevada desert and home to climbing opportunities of every discipline, from single-pitch sport climbing at the Gallery to all-day multi-pitch adventures in numerous canyons. Boulderers will enjoy a huge selection of incredibly aesthetic and climbing-conducive sandstone in Calico Basin and Black Velvet Canyon. If you’re craving something a little steeper, drive an hour north to Mt. Charleston for harder bolt-clipping out massive limestone caves. Whatever your vice, Vegas aims to please, and with climbing like this, you don’t even have to play your cards right to hit the jackpot.

Where to Eat/Drink

The Strip and surrounding sprawl offer no shortage of buffets, restaurants, and fast food joints, but a little foresight can satisfy your palate while saving your wallet. For breakfast, the Red Rock Casino offers a legendary buffet (voted best in Las Vegas) just 10 minutes from the Red Rock camping. The cost is $10 for the general public or $7 when you sign up for their Players’ Club (free, 21+). This grants you the unique opportunity to play slots with a side of poached eggs. For lunch or dinner, stop by Bachi Burger in Summerlin for souped-up, Asian-inspired burger creations. Grass-fed beef along with toppings like yamamomo peaches and garlic-chili aioli make this an exceptional culinary experience. Sushi spot Osaka is an upscale favorite for local climbers. Ask to sit in the back Tatami room for the most authentic dining experience. Most options outside of fast food are relatively expensive, so a grocery store is the smart choice for those balling on a budget. There’s a Whole Foods 15 minutes from Red Rock on West Charleston Boulevard, or, alternatively, a Sunflower Market on South Rainbow Boulevard offers the same products at more reasonable prices.

Ten minutes from the Red Rock campground (in the same casino as the aforementioned breakfast buffet), the Yard House restaurant offers a drink selection with something for everyone. Think: rotating specialty and seasonal beers on tap and happy hour specials on the hard stuff from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Friday, and 10 p.m. to close, Sunday through Wednesday. If you’re looking to sample the best of local microbrew culture, check out the Chicago Brewing Company to pair award-winning drafts with Chicago-style, deep-dish pizza. We recommend the Honey Bru Bru, a Belgian-style pale brewed with sweet desert honey.

Where to Stay

The 13-Mile Campground, two miles east of the visitor center off of West Charleston Boulevard, is the only campground in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. It provides easy access to all of the climbing in the area. First-come, first-served two-vehicle campsites are $15/night, with vault toilets and water spigots included. The campgrounds are closed each summer, typically between Memorial Day and Labor Day. Visit redrockcanyonlv.org for information on campground rules, plus details on reserving group sites. Another option: Las Vegas boasts some of the cheapest hotel rates nationwide, especially if you’re rolling with a crew willing to split the cost.

Where to Buy Gear

Desert Rock Sports is an awesome gear shop just 15 minutes from Red Rock. Staffed by climbers and a few doors down from the local gym Red Rock Climbing Center, the store offers an array of climbing paraphernalia, including gear, apparel, and guidebooks. They are also an excellent resource for climbing, camping, showering, eating, and boozing beta—they are definitely the locals that know. You can even rent crashpads there for $15/day. With free Wi-Fi, a comfy couch, and a staff that won’t get mad when you and your dirtbag friends hang out in their shop for the better part of a day, what’s not to love? The store recently took on a guiding service as well, providing half- and full-day excursions into the Calico Hills for groups of all sizes and ability levels. Check out their website for information on rates, permits, passes, and weather, along with answers to pressing questions like: “Why are the rocks so RED?” 

We cannot stress enough the value of a good shower after a few days camping in the desert, sleeping in the dirt, and being blasted by a sand-filled wind. Lucky for you, Red Rock Climbing Center has showers for just $4 in an environment that welcomes and understands the sandy, sweaty, chalky-fingered type.

Where to Spend a Rest Day

It’s not hard to find something to do in a place often referred to as “America’s Playground.” The Strip has enough casinos, stores, and restaurants to satisfy a lifetime, let alone a day to allow the skin to heal. If all of that sounds a little too touristy—or maybe you’re terrible at gambling—the entire Las Vegas region offers many beautiful hiking and biking opportunities as well. Try the four-mile hike up Turtlehead Peak, one of the tallest summits in Calico Basin that doesn’t require technical climbing, for killer panoramic views of the canyon. On a rainy day (there aren’t many), go see a movie or take a swim at the Red Rock Casino. Vegas truly has a little something for everyone, and it’s the only climbing area where a rest day could make you rich!

What to Climb: The 10 Best 4-Star Routes

As ranked by Mountain Project users

Dark Shadows (5.8)
Pine Creek Canyon, Red Rock
“Great route! Cool creek and crystal-clear pools at the base. We got to watch mountain goats defy gravity on the cliffs across the way. Is anybody else amazed that an international epicenter of hedonistic pleasure, vice, and grime is so close when back in these beautiful canyons? I always am.”

Epinephrine (5.9)
Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rock
“Holy smokes! This climb delivers a little bit of something for everyone! The chimney pitches are just the price of admission for an unbelievable upper section. Do not underestimate the descent. We did car to car in 12 hours, and I’m confident that we spent three hours of that on the descent.”

1057 (5.10)
Mt. Charleston
“This is a great climb that reminded me of Owens River Gorge, California. Big holds that are easy on the hands.”

The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
Juniper Canyon, Red Rock
“Great route and nice views of the Rainbow Wall. Highly recommend topping this out. We climbed a route on Jackrabbit Buttress to get to The Nightcrawler, and then did the scenic walk-off down Gunsight Notch. My toes were tired the next morning from all the stemming!”

Levitation 29 (5.11b/c)
Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rock
“Deserves every bit of the hype it gets. Pitch after pitch of amazing climbing, great exposure, and a remote feeling. Views were awesome. If you commit to the approach, finish the route and walk off—it’s worth it.”

Mr. Choad’s Wild Ride (5.11b)
Calico Basin, Red Rock
“Extraordinarily good route, one of the best sport routes I’ve ever done at the grade. Unlike any other route in the area. Long moves, big holds, and somewhat spicy if you’re pumped!”

Cloud Tower (5.12-)
Juniper Canyon, Red Rock
“This is a great route, climbed it when I was 17 and 135 lbs. with little stick fingers, and again at 26, same height, 165 lbs. with sausage fingers. I hope to climb it every few years until my old ass can’t make it out there anymore.”

The Original Route (5.12-)
Juniper Canyon, Red Rock
“One of the most amazing free climbs I have ever done, and climbers should not be scared away by the lofty grade. Every move approaching 5.12 on the route is protected by a nice shiny bolt, allowing you both the comfort of safety and the foresight that a crux may follow. Very accessible for the grade. Great pro, tons of face holds, not a hand jam in sight (literally), rap anchors everywhere—I guess what I’m trying to say is anyone clipping bolts at the Gallery can, and certainly should, go clip some bolts on the Rainbow Wall instead!”

Monster Skank (5.13b)
Sandstone Quarry, Red Rock
“World-class! Fun start through very cool rock features. For me there were two cruxes: one near the beginning with a pinky jam and the mandatory all-points-off dyno farther up.”

Wet Dream (V12)
Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rock
“One look and the name is evident. A singular line up a monster of hard, compact sandstone sitting in the middle of a dried-up riverbed. Water-sculpted holds and stellar movement. One of the best in the country. Period.”

Las Vegas, Nevada Climbing Metrics

Style
A playground for sport and a proving ground for trad.

Difficulty
5.10 climbers shine.

Quality
Sandstone doesn’t get any better than this

Season
Warm winter wonderland

*Stats are for the immediate Vegas area. Get route beta, photos, and topos for the whole state at mountainproject.com.

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