How to Climb the Luzzone Dam (Better Than) Chris Hemsworth

Published September 5, 2025 04:00AM

While people have been climbing the Luzzone Dam for well over two decades, the concrete cliff recently had a moment in the spotlight on the Disney+ TV series Limitless. In a recent episode, actor Chris Hemsworth confronts fear—and possibly frostbite—by climbing the five-pitch dam.

Climbing a giant dam in Switzerland might sound ridiculous, but since I live three hours away in Lausanne, I decided to try it. It turns out it is ridiculous—and also ridiculously fun.

My experience climbing Diga di Luzzone

Research told me to expect plenty of two things: exposure and bird poop. Both were true. From a distance, it’s hard to see that there is indeed a climbing route that goes to the top. This is mainly due to the sheer size of the dam—it rises some 165 meters (541 feet) above the Verzasca Valley. As we walked closer, the route began to appear—along with the realization of how much exposure we were about to experience. Standing at the base of the Luzzone Dam triggered the same vertigo I felt under El Capitan. No moderate route I know of matches this level of exposure.

My friend Caroline and I began our climb around noon in late August. Our idea? Attempt to create an official speed record for Luzzone. As far as we knew, there was no prior speed record attempt on the route and no known speed records existed. Though we were tired from working the weekend prior at a local climbing fest, we set a simple goal: Climb fast, but above all, have fun.

To achieve the fast part, we decided to link the five pitches into two by simul-climbing with a 60m rope and 25 quickdraws. Since the recommended rack is 14 draws, I skipped nearly every other bolt until we reached the third pitch. (A quick note on simul-climbing: This is a dangerous form of climbing. Anyone who uses this technique should be very confident in their skills and systems for this type of climbing.)

The grades increase slightly with each pitch, not due to the movement itself, but because the dam gently curves from slab to vertical higher up. A few of the 600-plus holds drilled into the Luzzone Dam were broken, and one was spinning. With the amount of weather this wall receives, it’s rather impressive this is the extent of the damage to the route.

Thanks to the dam’s curved flat shape, I could chat with Caroline the whole way up. Generally, our conversations focused on the sheer volume of crunchy bird poop that we encountered—and the silly nature of what we were doing.

Caroline led the last two pitches in style. She took a short minute at the belay transfer, but basically did not stop climbing until reaching the top. We topped out in one hour and 18 minutes, with a car-to-car time of about three hours. This includes two (very necessary) cappuccino stops before and after climbing.

I later found out that rumors say the speed record was about 30 minutes, so at least we know what to shoot for next time. We are already planning the next attempt … with glitter, silly costumes, and more quickdraws!

Climbing the dam is a one-of-a-kind experience. I’ve never been on a multi-pitch route that felt so exposed, so absurd, and yet so much fun on moderate terrain. I’d even dare to say there’s nothing else like it. If you don’t take climbing too seriously, you’ll absolutely love it.

A short history of Switzerland’s Luzzone Dam

While construction on the dam itself wrapped up in 1963, the climbing didn’t come to be until several decades later. Just a few years after the height of the dam was extended by 17 meters in 1998, the Ticino Alpine Guides Association bolted a five-pitch sport route up the dam in 1999.

The local tourism board had wanted a new attraction in the valley, so the guides got creative. They designed the route in a climbing gym using a scale model of the dam, measuring every hold. Then they bolted into the 165-meter concrete wall, making it the longest artificial climb in the world.

Since then, the Ticino Guides have continued to oversee the route with annual maintenance. Each spring, guides rappel the dam, inspect every hold and bolt, and replace what’s worn out. In 2023, several anchors were upgraded and small ledges were added at the belays to make the exposure slightly less terrifying.

Luzzone is actually one of three climbable dams in Ticino. About an hour and a half away from Luzzone, the Verzasca Dam hosts the Red Bull Dual Ascent competition and is only accessible to professionals associated with Red Bull. And a two-and-a-half-hour drive away, the Sambuco Dam offers a much more beginner-friendly climbing experience than the Luzzone Dam, with five routes, all more moderate than the line up Luzzone.

As for Hemsworth’s recent ascent of Luzzone (on toprope), the secretary of the Ticino Alpine Guides Association, Pierre Crivelli, says locals aren’t complaining “as long as the region, privacy, people, and the land are respected.” Crivelli mentioned several other Luzzone cameos in popular media. One example he shared is a series of YouTube videos from five years ago wherein people throw objects off of the dam. “If you look carefully at the base, you can still occasionally find remnants of material,” Crivelli told me. Basically, you are welcome to climb the dam, but do so with the same respect you would any climbing area.

How to climb the Luzzone Dam

If you want to try to get your own first dam ascent, this is the beta you need. I’ve put together a mini guide to climbing the Luzzone Dam based on my own experience and research.

Seasonal access

You can climb the gym from May through October only. Unless you have Disney+ level production permits, winter ascents like Hemsworth’s are not possible nor recommended.

While I began my climb mid-day, if you’re climbing in the summer, I would recommend starting at an earlier time to avoid the sun.

Registering and cost to climb

To prevent unskilled climbers from attempting Luzzone, the route starts about 25 feet up the dam. A locked ladder accesses the start of the route. So you’ll need the key to the ladder to climb the route.

Each climber must pay 20 Swiss Francs (or $25 USD) and sign a waiver. Then you will be given a key to unlock the ladder at the base of the route. As of this summer, the location to pick up the key is no longer at the restaurant and has moved to a campsite 15 minutes from the dam itself. The current key pickup location (as of 2025) is the Polis Camping Bistro in Olivone (15 minutes away). The location is subject to change so be sure to check the confirmation email sent after booking online.

Note that there is a two-person minimum—yes, you need a partner. You’ll also need to pay a 100 Swiss Francs ($125 USD) refundable deposit that you get back when you return the key.

Luzzone climbing difficulty and time required

The route up Luzzone consists of five pitches, with the hardest pitch at the top: 5.10c. Expect long, consistent sequences on old-school plastic. Here’s the pitch-by-pitch grade breakdown:

While simul-climbing the dam allowed Caroline and I to make pretty quick work of the climb, budget around two or three hours to climb the dam.

Luzzone gear list

An anchor for each pitch consists of two bolts with chains. There is a small ledge you can stand on at each belay.

Bailing: Don’t count on rappelling the entire wall. The top pitches are overhanging, making retreat (especially after the fourth pitch) complicated and sometimes impossible.

More tips for the climb

Parking and approach: There are two lots, one above and one below the dam. It’s less than a five-minute approach from the lower parking lot, and 20 minutes from the upper parking.

Guides: If you lack multi-pitch experience or want to toprope the Luzzone Dam route, you can book a guide through Ticino Alpine Guides Association.

The World's Tallest Artificial Route Soars up a Dam. Here's Your Guide to Climbing It.

My experience climbing Diga di Luzzone

A short history of Switzerland’s Luzzone Dam