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A few weeks ago, Kate Harrison set off on the “particularly bold” route True Grip (E5 6a, or very scary 5.11+) in the U.K.’s North Wales. Harrison’s boyfriend and belayer, Chris Roberts, told Climbing that True Grip has long sections of inadequate protection and big fall potential.
Midway up the route, Kate’s left foot slipped on a glassy knob and her highest piece of gear, a small nut (a Wild Country Rock 3), ripped out, causing her to plummet what Roberts believes to be about 20 meters. “Fortunately I caught her on better gear placed in a horizontal break in the wall,” he said, “although she came very close to the ground.”
Roberts reported that the fall was so big that it partially damaged the yellow Totem cam that eventually caught Harrison, and broke some of the rock it was placed in.
“I think the lesson learned on this one is to make sure you build absolute bomber shelters of gear before going for runout sections,” Roberts said. He also said that rope stretch should be considered on routes where ground falls are (evidently) a possibility. Although a less-stretchy rope may transfer greater forces onto your protection, it might also keep you from hitting the ground.
Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend.