FIND A SHOW NEAR YOU

Kick off winter with Warren Miller!

GET TICKETS

FIND A SHOW NEAR YOU

Kick off winter with Warren Miller!

GET TICKETS

Weekend Whipper: Head-First Trad Fall on “The Burliest 5.8 in the Gunks”

“It was a little too close to the deck for comfort.”

Video loading...
Photo: Danny Neri

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app.

Readers, please send your Weekend Whipper videos, information, and any lessons learned to Anthony Walsh, awalsh@outsideinc.com.

The Shawangunks, in New York, are not particularly known for soft grades. So when Mountain Project calls Double Crack “the burliest 5.8 in the Gunks,” it’s good to have your wits about you.

Double Crack is a 150-foot single-pitch trad route at the Gunks’ Yellow Wall. It is commonly described as having a low 5.8 crux, and then move after move of consistent 5.7 terrain. For a 5.8 leader, it’s a total pumpfest.

Jason Shao had hoped to onsight Double Crack, but he “was stumped by the pumpy beginning and took a few whips on a #4 Black Diamond Stopper,” his friend Zoey Fiber said. On his last attempt, his foot caught the rope mid-fall and he inverted, hitting his head and back. “It was a little too close to the deck for comfort.”

After the fall, Fiber said the group did a full Wilderness First Responder assessment and concluded that, thankfully, Jason was completely unharmed. “This experience reminded us how important it is to always wear your helmet, and to be vigilant about where the rope is in relation to feet,” Fiber said.

Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend. Thanks to Danny Neri for the video.

Popular on Climbing

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.