National Park Service Ends Bid to Ban Fixed Anchors in Wilderness Areas

This story has been updated on December 19 at 3:35pm MT. 

Just over a year ago, in November 2023, the National Park Service (NPS) and U.S. Forest Service introduced a proposal that would define fixed anchors as “installations,” which are prohibited in Wilderness areas. In effect, this would have made climbing all but illegal across these public lands. Along with anchors, bolts, rap rings, slung trees, irrevocably stuck nuts, pitons, and any climbing gear left behind would qualify as an “installation.”

This would have dramatically changed the face of iconic climbing areas, from Yosemite, the Black Canyon, and Wyoming’s Wind River Range, to Joshua Tree and Rocky Mountain National Park, among many more destinations. In total, over 50,000 routes across 28 states would have been impacted by the fixed anchor ban. You can learn more about what the proposal entailed and its implications here.

But after a year of vigorous advocacy from The Access Fund and the climbing community, on Wednesday, December 18, 2024, the NPS withdrew its proposal.

Behind the NPS Withdrew of its Wilderness Fixed Anchor Ban Proposal

Since the Access Fund works closely with the Park Service, the announcement was not entirely unexpected, according to Erik Murdock, the nonprofit’s Deputy Director. Though the policy withdrawal did not come as any sort of formal announcement. The NPS merely added an update to its policy proposal’s public comment page, which stated:

“UPDATE December 18, 2024: The NPS has discontinued the development of this proposed guidance. Park leaders will continue to manage climbing activities in wilderness on a park-by-park basis consistent with applicable law and policy, including the Wilderness Act.”

While the NPS didn’t offer any sort of explanation as to why it withdrew its proposal, Murdock believes that “in the end, they [the NPS] listened to the American public.”

During the 60-day comment period, the NPS received 10,000 comments. The Access Fund, the climbing industry, and the climbing community spent the past year advocating for the withdrawal of this policy. And a bipartisan coalition of 14 senators—seven Republicans and seven Democrats—spoke up against the proposal, too. Murdock says that “the impact of the Congressional members coming out in support of the climbing community can not be overstated.”

In particular, Senator Maria Cantwell (WA) was “leading the charge,” according to Murdock. As an elected official who’s climbed Mt. Rainier and in the Grand Tetons, “she knew very well that this was an absurd policy,” Murdock says.

Is a Proposal Like This Still a Threat?

In short, yes. While the NPS has withdrawn its policy proposal, the U.S. Forest Service’s similar proposal remains on the table.

“I hope that the Forest Service follows suit and retracts their proposal to prohibit fixed anchors,” Murdock says. He also clarifies that the National Park Service already has an existing policy in place to fall back on, which resulted from years of close collaboration. But the Forest Service still lacks a national climbing policy or management plan.

“There will be more work to be done with the Forest Service policy,” Murdock says.

Another Major Victory: Protecting America’s Rock Climbing Act

In tandem with its efforts to appeal to the NPS, the Access Fund also advocated for the Protecting America’s Rock Climbing Act (PARC). This bipartisan act is designed to protect “standard and sustainable Wilderness climbing activities,” according to the Access Fund. As part of the greater EXPLORE Act, the intent is to protect recreational access, make recreational policy improvements, and support communities that act as gateways to recreation.

And just a day after the NPS withdrew its proposal, on December 19, Congress officially passed the PARC Act. Stay tuned for more on that developing story.

What the Climbing Community Can Do Now

While the NPS’s withdrawal of its Wilderness fixed anchor ban proposal relieves a lot of pressure, the challenges to protecting access are far from over.

So here’s a five-step plan for staying in the fight, based on the actions Murdock recommends:

1. First, celebrate. Murdock and the team at the Access Fund are thanks for the voices and efforts of the climbing community. If you submitted a comment, shared a post, reached out to your elected officials, donated to the Access Fund, or took any sort of action however small over the past year, take a moment to feel good about yourself.
2. Go climb in the Wilderness. Murdock would love to see climbers get out in Wilderness areas this holiday season. “Think about how important it is and then we’ll come back in the new year with some hardcore strategy.”
3. Stay aware. Don’t assume that this victory means we can back off and stop paying attention. Murdock recommends following the @accessfund on social, keeping track of developments, and looking out for calls to action from the Access Fund to speak up about future administrative policies. “There is no question there will be a lot of that in the future,” Murdock says.
4. Say thanks. You can reach out to that coalition of 14 senators who supported the climbing community during this challenge, especially if you’re in one of their districts. Here are their names: Maria Cantwell (WA), John Boozman (AR), Joe Manchin III (WV), John Barrasso (WY), Patty Murray (WA), Mike Crapo (ID), Catherine Cortez Masto (NV), James E. Risch (ID), Michael F. Bennet (CO), Michael S. Lee (UT), Jacky Rosen (NV), Lisa Murkowski (AK), John Hickenlooper (CO), Cynthia M. Lummis (WY).

Ultimately, this represents a major moment for the climbing community. “This is 5.14 climbing advocacy,” Murdock says. “This doesn’t happen everyday.” He hopes that the current momentum can create a strong jumping off point to work with the Forest Service on a policy designed to protect both the Wilderness and Wilderness climbing.

Lastly, Access Fund Executive Director Heather Thornes reminds us all that one of the biggest ways to take action is by climbing with respect in Wilderness areas. We must exercise restraint, humility, and respect as we climb in these amazing Wilderness areas to ensure that they remain accessible for generations to come,” Thornes says.

Note: This is a developing story and we will update it with more information and insights as they become available.