How to Know If an Ice Pillar is Stable
A pillar's verticality leads to strenuous climbing, and the skinniest of them are prone to collapse if conditions aren’t just right. We asked three expert ice climbers for their advice.
Author
Dougald MacDonald
My Stories
Why Do So Many Climbers Not Wear Helmets?
Head trauma is among the most feared and catastrophic injuries in climbing. So why aren't more rock climbers wearing helmets?
Dirty Dingus McGee and the Reese Mountain Gang
Climbing in the Laramie Mountains? It's not for the faint of heart.
A Mis-clipped Anchor Leads to a 60-foot Grounder—And a Life Saving Spot
We spot boulder problems. Sometimes we spot climbers before they clip their first piece of pro. Now imagine spotting a climber falling 60 feet.
From the Archive: When a Climber is Pinned by Two-ton Boulder, Friends Launch Remarkable Rescue
On December 5, 2011, in Pinnacles National Park, California, Lars Johnson found his legs crushed by a 2-ton boulder. His fast-acting partners saved his life.
Expert Advice for Advanced Resting Tactics
Terminally pumped? Follow these tips to achieve a restful stance on vertical rock, steep caves, corners, and more.
Six Near-death Climbing Accidents Analyzed and Explained
These famous climbing accidents are equal parts gripping and inspiring. If any reader should someday find themself in such a desperate situation, we hope they too will remember how others endured, living to climb another day.
Our Favorite High-Elevation Crags to Beat Summer’s Heat
Get this high elevation rock while you can!
10 Things You May Not Know About the Matterhorn
157 years ago, today, the Matterhorn saw its first ascent. To celebrate that fact, we present 10 fun facts about Europe’s most famous summit.
“A direct hit might have killed me”: 5 Climbers and Their Worst Head Injuries
Climbing head injuries can happen anywhere: from the Salathé on El Cap to your favorite little sport crag. Here are five climbers' nightmare scenarios.
Six Classic Free Routes With Cruxes You Can Skip (Just in Case)
Some climbers wait to attempt famous free routes until they’re good enough to do them in perfect style. But what if you are never that good? Purists would say you should stay off the climb—leave it for those who have the necessary strength and talent. I say go for it, with a few points of A0.
Soloist Is Stranded Midway Up Longs Peak. His Rescuer Piggybacks Him Up 5.4 To Safety
What do you do if you find an injured solo climber halfway up a 1,600-foot face? In the 1930s, the only option was a high-elevation piggyback ride.
Climber’s Only Pro Pulls While 30ft Up. Stranger Solos Up to Reset It As He Whips
In a crisis, decisive action may be the difference between life and death. Sometimes only a bystander is prepared to take that step.
With No Rescue Equipment and a Dying, Paralyzed Partner, This Climber Dug Deep
Where do you find superhuman strength? If someone you love is utterly dependent on your efforts, sometimes you discover it’s already within you.
Climbers Come Unclipped At Anchor, A Life-Saving Body Belay Ensues
A tiny ledge three pitches off the ground. The anchor is unclipped. Your belayer has just fallen over the edge. Now what?
Ordinary Heroes: Never Mono a Bolt Hanger—Unless You’re Saving Someone’s Life
Everyone has heard of the distraught mother lifting a car off of her baby. But grabbing a bolt while saving a falling climber? That one is new.
Trapped By A 600-pound Block, He Would Have Died Except For A Quick-Thinking Partner
The climbers thought they might do a variation to the Steck-Salathé and brought a bolt kit—a decision that would prove crucial.
Ordinary Heroes: Escaping a 2,000-Foot Alaskan Wall With a Paralyzed Partner
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Ordinary Heroes: Though He Was Killed by Rockfall, His Belay Hand Never Left the Rope
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Mason Earle Wins 2015 Golden Piton Award for Trad Climbing
Mason Earle, Salt Lake City, Utah (and the Road)
Will Mayo Sends Desperate Dry-Tool Route in Crazy Tunnel Called the Ghetto
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Prevent Chronic Climber’s Toe Pain
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New Route on Great Trango Tower
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Cobra Crack: Nico’s Story, Ethan’s Near Miss
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Climbers Lost Near End of Huge Alaskan Traverse
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Scarface (5.11b), Indian Creek, Utah
Scarface, in Indian Creek, is not just a pretty climb—it’s also a great climb. Here's what you need to know about the climb (and the shot).
Much-Eyed Face on Kamet Finally Climbed
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Paul Robinson Repeats Terremer (V15/V16)
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Russians Conquer K2’s West Face
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Vail Gets 2 New Testpieces
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