James Lucas

The Boulder local and her French partner simul-climbed the five-pitch route “bridge to bridge” in 37 minutes 8 seconds, shaving 32 seconds from the previous record.

Get the timing, destination, goals, and more right

Hannes Puman becomes first to send the alt pitch to Changing Corners

I spent 40 days working on Freerider before freeing it in a 16-hour push. Here's what I wish I knew at the start of that process.

John Middendorf revolutionized portaledge technology, allowing climbers to survive terrible storms on big walls.

After months of work (and more than a 100,000 vertical feet of hiking) Chase Leary and Andy Puhvel finally freed ‘Keel Haul’ (5.13c; 2,000ft). The crux is pitch is above 14,000 feet.

The new HBO film "Here to Climb" offers an analytical and surprisingly candid exploration of Sasha DiGiulian's journey from solitary sport climber to team player. The film debuts Tuesday, June 18 at 9pm ET/PT on HBO.

The rope solo record on the notoriously slow ‘Salathe Wall’ was just shy of 20 hours. Honnold did it in 11.

While James Lucas was working on the new Bishop guidebook, he put together a list of Bishop’s best highballs at every grade up to V10. Pad these climbs carefully—or better yet, don't fall.

It’s easy to think that we can look after our pets’ needs at the cliff, but, in reality, we can’t.

A 5.15a slab was recently established on UK slate, and 5.14+ slabs exist in Spanish granite—but one of the hardest slabs in the U.S. is graded just 5.13c... which might be why it's been unrepeated for 23 years.

 Waterhouse had just a little crack experience, Ridal even less. But as it turns out, comp boulders have a lot in common with El Cap granite

At 79 years old and after nearly 1,000 dispatches from the El Cap Meadow, Evans has decided to step away from the ElCap Report.

On big wall climbs, strategy is as important as strength and skill when it comes to determining success and failure.

The line that cemented new tactics, new gear, and a new grade

Improve faster and avoid injuries by climbing just below your limit—roughly 80 percent of your maximum ability—about 90 percent of the time.

Either be mad about overcrowding or try these productive actions.

The Moose’s Tooth, topping out at 10,335 over Alaska’s Ruth Gorge, is one of the most iconic formations in North America.

I took the sweat, blood, and pain, wrapped it up in a ball, and gave it a party theme. All the hard work now glimmered and shined.

Did the rules that climbers hated actually save Hueco Tanks? (From 2019)

How the internet became a climbing-anger machine.

Arousal regulation and mental toughness are crucial for success on climbs at your limit. Knowing when to activate your mind and how to control it takes practice, and here Justen Sjong shares his insight.

Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.

“It only takes a few people a year to really do some damage.”

The route features hard slab, 5.13+ seams, and a 5.13c finger crack of such high quality that the climbers named the ropelength "As Good as It Gets."

From the archive: James Lucas finds his way (and our history) at the Virgin River Gorge.

You see untold climbing photos nearly every day and most of them suck. The bad news is they're your pics. It doesn't have to be this way. Follow the advice from these five expert climbing photographers and start taking world-class pics you'll be proud to share.

"On arriving at the belay, I saw that my partner had tried to put the tube-style belay device in guide mode, but failed."

Alex Honnold's free solo of El Capitan did not occur in a bubble of solitude and inspiration. In this archive piece, originally published shortly after Honnold's ascent, James Lucas dives into the story (and backstory) of Honnold's path to Freerider.

He said the sustained route is a candidate for one of the hardest in the country.

Check out James Lucas's author page.

Unlock hard sequences and recover with a solid kneebar.

“She’s my favorite international climbing partner,” says Kate Rutherford. "She can make ramen and tuna taste gourmet."

Check out James Lucas's author page.

How skinny do we really need to be to crush? Where do you draw the line between strategic dieting and an unhealthy eating disorder?

Check out James Lucas's author page.

Check out James Lucas's author page.

Our picks for the best gear of 2020.

Taking a break from his training dojo in Estes Park, Colorado, one of the world’s best all-arounders talks about hard climbing, the risk in alpinism, his low profile on social media, and balancing life as a father and pro climber.

Check out James Lucas's author page.

The challenge and mystique of Pakistan's Trango Tower in the Karakoram

Check out James Lucas's author page.

A former dirtbag turned upright citizen searches for love

Climbers try free variation to Patagonian testpiece Riders on the Storm

Sought-after Himalayan challenge completed by multi-national team